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Contents:
* Mosquitoes
* Fleas and
Ticks
* Prevention
– Treating Pets
* Commercial
Products
* Natural
Methods
* Important
Precautions and Warnings
* Flea
Treatment of the Home
* Flea
Treatment of the Yard
* Shampooing
* Related
Webpages
Mosquitoes:
*
Remember to use heartworm preventive. Heartworms are transmitted by
mosquitoes, which are present nearly year-round in our area and
throughout the country.
* While
there have been very few cases of West Nile Virus reported in
canines, it’s still wise to observe the following precautions
suggested by the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC). These
tips can help safeguard human family members too.
* Keep
pets indoors at dawn, dusk and early evening when mosquitoes are
most active.
*
Eliminate areas of standing water that can serve as breeding grounds
for mosquitoes, and remember to recheck after each rainfall.
* Change
any outdoor water bowls a couple times a day to prevent mosquitoes
from using them to lay their eggs.
* The
APCC does not recommend the use of mosquito control products that
contain DEET. Dogs and cats are extremely sensitive to DEET and may
develop neurological problems if a product formulated with DEET is
applied to them.
* Some
topical flea and tick control products for dogs such as Frontline
and K9 Advantix contain mosquito repellent.
* Avoid
using pest control products with concentrated essential oils such as
tea tree, pennyroyal and d-limonine. These concentrates have caused
weakness, paralysis, liver problems and seizures in pets, plus their
effectiveness is not proven.
Fleas and Ticks:
* Fleas and
ticks cause a variety of problems in pets. Fleas feed on animal
blood and can trigger problems including skin irritation, allergic
reactions, anemia and in rare cases, death. They can also carry
tapeworms, which can infest your pet. If you see small rice-like
particles around the dog’s anus or in his feces, he probably has
tapeworms.
* Ticks
carry diseases such as Lyme, ehrlichiosis, babesiosis and Rocky
Mountain Spotted Fever, so you don’t want them feeding on your pet
either.
Finding and Removing Fleas and Ticks:
*
Chemical- and drug-free ways to keep your pet from getting “bugged”
include inspecting your pet each day, and better yet, after each
outing outdoors.
* Use a
flea comb to search for and remove fleas. Use tweezers or a tick
scoop to remove any other bugs and burrs.
* You can
dab some petroleum jelly on the comb to help make the fleas stick to
its tines.
* Gather
a cotton ball, alcohol and cup filled halfway with warm soapy
water. Soak the cotton ball in alcohol before combing.
*
Remember to check between your dog’s toes, behind and in the ears,
in the armpits, around the tail and head.
* Comb
your pet over white paper. If fleas are present, you will see tiny
black specks fall on the paper.
* To
check your dog for fleas when bathing, place a large white towel
beneath your dog. Fleas typically fall off when you rinse the dog,
so you’re likely to spot them on the towel.
When
finding fleas....
* Dab
fleas with the cotton ball soaked in alcohol. This slows down
fleas, enabling you to catch them. Then plunge the fleas to the
bottom of the cup of water. Next, dump the water into the toilet
and flush, or rinse down a sink, to prevent the flea from escaping.
When
finding a tick....
* When
finding a tick, carefully remove the whole tick from the pet’s
body. A tick scoop, available at many pet supply stores, is best
for removing ticks. See www.tickedoff.com for tick scoop details.
How to remove a tick using tweezers: Grasp the tick as close to the
skin as possible by gripping its head. Steadily pull upward until
the tick releases his grip. Do not twist or jerk the tick or you
might break off the head or mouth parts, and you do not want to
leave the tick head embedded in your pet’s skin. Also, do not
squeeze to the point of crushing the tick, or disease-spreading
secretions may be released. If you do not have tweezers or a tick
scoop, you can use your fingers, a loop of thread around the jaws,
or a needle between the jaws to pull it out.
If the
head is left in the skin, use a sterile needle to remove the head
similar to how you would remove a splinter. Wash the tick bite and
your hands with soap and water, and apply antibiotic ointment to the
bite.
Note:
Studies show that using petroleum jelly, alcohol and hot match heads
do not work to loosen ticks from skin, although a few people still
use the petroleum jelly and rubbing alcohol approaches, but the hot
match technique has caused skin injuries.
* Ticks
do not drown in water, so dispose of them by wrapping in a tissue
and flushing down the toilet, or drowning in rubbing alcohol. Do
not crush the tick; that can spread disease. Some vets may want to
see the tick if disease transmission is suspected.
* Swab
the pet’s bitten area with antiseptic.
Prevention – Treating Pets:
* Keep
your pets healthy. Fleas and other parasites have less effect on
healthy animals...and they tend to live on pets who are unhealthy
and/or have weak immune systems. And, as with healthy humans,
healthy animals recover from illness faster and in the case of
contracting parasites, are not likely to get sick. It’s a matter of
immunity.
Some daily
immunity-boosters for dogs: a half teaspoon of nutritional brewer’s
yeast to provide the B complex vitamins a dog needs...or give your
pet B complex vitamins – 50 mg once a day for cats and smaller dogs,
and twice daily for larger dogs...add fresh garlic to the food bowl,
in the amount of one crushed clove of garlic (not a whole bulb; a
clove is just one chamber) per every 30 pounds...a teaspoon each of
safflower oil and powdered kelp or seaweed...supplements with Omega
3 and 6 fatty acid.
* Animal
Essentials, Green Hope Essences and Vetriscience are among many
companies that make products designed to boost the immune system and
help heal the skin. Do an internet search to find more choices.
* Worth
noting: stressful conditions weaken immunity in humans and
animals. A harmonious home is a healthier one.
Commercial Products:
* There
are many modern effective flea and tick products, including several
“spot on” types that are easy to apply to the skin such as Frontline
(effective for killing fleas and ticks) and K9 Advantix (fleas,
ticks and mosquitoes). Cat products include Frontline and
Advantage. You do not need to use them year-round, but you should
consider using them monthly during flea and tick seasons. Ask your
veterinarian about effective medications, and learn the facts about
the pest prevention you use. You can also find details about
various products on the web. You can compare several dog and cat
flea/tick products at
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?dept_id=0&siteid=12&acatid=176&aid=325
* There
are several less expensive over-the-counter flea and tick products
for dogs available in pet supply stores and supermarkets. These
products typically contain permethrin, which is derived from a
natural insecticide. Brands include BioSpot and Control (which also
include an insect growth regulator). Permethrin tends to be more
effective against ticks than fleas. Since permethrin can be toxic
to cats, you may not want to use it on your dogs if you also have
cats. For details, see
http://www.VeterinaryPartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&S=0&C=0&A=626.
For cats, BioSpot offers Flea Halt Towelettes.
* Keep in
mind that some adult-strength products are too harsh for young
puppies, and that dog and cat products are not interchangeable since
the strengths and formulas of the products differ. Read this entire
tipsheet for other important guidance.
* Insect
growth regulators (IGR) like lufenuron, methoprene, and pyriproxyfen
can be used alone or in combination with other flea
control/flea-killing products. They can help break the flea life
cycle by inhibiting flea maturation. IGRs include Precor (used
inside the home), Program (pill for dogs, oral liquid for cats), and
Archer and FleaFix (which are applied to the environment by spray
indoors and outdoors). Some pet owners pair Program with one of the
topical products (such as Frontline) mentioned above.
* Use
sprays in well-ventilated areas, or better yet, outdoors. Never
spray on the face; when applying solutions to the face, rub on
gently with your hands.
* Keep in
mind that flea shampoos, powders, and sprays tend to kill only the
adult fleas on the pet at the time of application. Flea mousses,
foams and creme rinses tend to last a little longer. Flea and tick
dips, which are typically poured on the pet, are stronger, but more
likely to contain harsh, toxic chemicals. The newer products
mentioned in this tipsheet are regarded as more effective and
somewhat safer than the older types of flea control. And of course,
some pet owners prefer the natural ingredient-based approaches.
Natural Flea and Tick Repellents:
*
Chemical- and drug-free ways to keep your pet from getting “bugged”
include inspecting your pet each day, and better yet, after each
outing outdoors. See above for combing and bug removal tips.
* A
growing number of pet owners use natural ingredient-based flea
repellents and techniques instead of pest control chemicals and
commercial medications for their pets. Following are some
natural/holistic approaches that many people find effective:
** Add a
tablespoon of organic apple cider vinegar to the dog’s water bowl.
** When
bathing your pet, you can use apple cider vinegar to rinse his or
her fur. Fleas don’t like the smell or taste.
**
Lavender, peppermint and geranium essential oils repel mosquitoes.
Lavender, lemongrass and geranium repel ticks. And lavender,
lemongrass, peppermint and citronella repel fleas. As you can see,
lavender (which also repels flies) is particularly versatile. Other
effective natural repellents include lemon, cedar, eucalyptus,
myrrh, neem and rosewood
** Put a
drop of lemon oil or rosemary oil on the dog’s collar.
** Dab
lavender oil in between the dog’s shoulder blades.
** A
safe, easy homemade flea repellent: cut 6 lemons in half, boil in a
quart of water, steep a few hours, then strain the solution into a
spray bottle. Spritz your pet’s fur, taking care not to spray near
the eyes.
Don’t
spray anything in a dog’s face; apply spray to the hand and then rub
it on the fur.
**
Another gentle homemade flea spray: dilute a flower-scented shampoo
in water and spray liberally, or rub into the coat and let air-dry.
When fleas are out of control, a relatively safe shampoo with
pyrethrin is usually helpful.
** Fresh
garlic in small quantities can help repel fleas by making the animal
taste unpleasant to fleas. Grate a small amount of fresh, raw
garlic into your pet’s food at mealtime, about 1/2 to 3 chambers of
the clove, depending on the animal’s size. Some holistic health
practitioners recommend heating the garlic for easier digestion, and
to not to give them garlic every day.
* Helpful
books include “Veterinarians Guide to Natural Remedies for Dogs:
Safe and Effective Alternative Treatments and Healing Techniques
from the Nation’s Top Holistic Veterinarians” by Martin Zucker.
* There
are a number of useful, relatively gentle flea shampoos you can use
if your dog does have fleas. Avoid shampoos with insecticides,
since the chemicals can be harsh. If your dog has fleas, use a
gentle shampoo containing pyrethrin, pyrethrum or citrus oil. See
the Robin’s Dog Tip about Bathing for bathing and grooming details.
* You can
find many natural products for flea and tick control on the
internet, including:
www.preciouspets.org/fleafree.htm
www.greenpet.com.au/article_fleas.php
* One
inexpensive over-the-counter choice for dogs and cats is Gentle
Touch drops. Gentle Touch is a spot on that is all natural and free
of chemicals and petroleum solvents.
*
Bothered by flies? Pyrethrin-based sprays and ointments are
relatively safe and effective.
Important Precautions (from the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center):
* Before
using any insect product, read the label instructions completely.
For example, some dog products can be deadly to cats, even in tiny
amounts. And some products should never be used on very young or
elderly pets.
* Never
use insecticides on young, pregnant, debilitated, or elderly animals
without consulting your veterinarian.
* Use
caution when using shampoos, sprays, topical spot-ons, or mousse
near your pet’s eyes, ears, and genitalia.
* Just
because a product is labeled as “natural” does not mean that it is
completely safe. For example, d-limonene and linalool are citrus
extracts used as flea control agents that can have serious side
effects if used on sensitive animals or if used improperly.
* Observe
your pet closely after using flea products. If he exhibits unusual
behavior, or becomes depressed, weak, or uncoordinated, contact your
vet immediately.
*
Typically you should not bathe the animal before or soon after
applying flea and/or tick control products. Again, it is essential
to read the product information.
* If you
use a flea collar and you let your dog swim in water, remove the
flea collar, since wet flea collars can irritate the skin, and the
active ingredients will wash off, rendering the collar ineffective.
More
Cautionary Information:
The
Natural Resources Defense Council issued an enlightening report,
Poisons on Pets: Health Hazards from Flea and Tick Products,
which can be accessed at
http://www.nrdc.org/health/effects/pets/execsum.asp
The Humane
Society of the United States also published an important report,
What You Should Know About Flea and Tick Products. An abstract
appears below; see the complete article at
http://www.hsus.org/ace/11795
The
Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) did not begin to review pet
products for safety until 1996. The substantial backlog of products
waiting to be tested meant that many pet products containing
potentially harmful pesticides still could be found on store
shelves.
After
reaching an agreement with manufacturers, the EPA announced that the
chlorpyrifos, also known as Dursban, and diazinon would be phased
out. The target dates were December 2002 for indoor-use products
(including flea and tick products) and December 2003 for lawn,
garden, and turf products.
* Avoid
products containing any of these active ingredients: chlorpyrifos,
dichlorvos, phosmet, naled, tetrachlorvinphos, diazinon and
malathion. Avoid products with carbamates by looking for the
chemical names carbaryl and propoxur on the label.
*
Instead, use a product with insect-growth regulators (IGRs), which
are not pesticides [and/or use natural remedies]. These will
prevent the next generation of fleas, although they will not kill
insects already on your pet. Common and effective IGR products
include those made with lufenuron (Program and Sentinel; available
by prescription), methoprene (Precor), and pyriproxyfen (Nylar and
EcoKyl).
* HSUS
suggests relatively newer topical products, available through
veterinarians, that are insecticides designed to have fewer toxic
effects on the nervous systems of mammals: imidacloprid (Advantage),
fipronil (Frontline, Top Spot), and selamectin (Revolution).
* Report
problems that you think resulted from flea products containing OPs
or carbamates to the EPA National Pesticide Telecommunications
Network at 800-858-7378. First, have your pet treated by a
veterinarian without delay.
And one
more cautionary note: using insecticides or repellents does not
guarantee that your pet will be protected from diseases carried by
parasites, such as Lyme disease transmitted by certain ticks.
Flea
Treatment of the Home:
Particularly during flea season, and whether or not you’ve seen
fleas in your home, vacuum all floors, rugs, furniture and other
surfaces at least once a week, paying particular attention to rooms
and places the animal usually stays. To make cleaning easier, you
can cover furniture and your pet’s favorite rugs with sheets.
Fleas lay
eggs, and the eggs fall off where the pet goes. This means that you
must treat your house if your pet has picked up fleas. The life
cycle of a flea is about four weeks, so even with diligent
treatment, it will probably take that long to rid your environment
of fleas.
Different
products have different levels of effectiveness depending on the
flea growth stage (egg, larva, adult), so typically a combination of
products is required. Some people use foggers with success, while
others hire a pest control professional. Still others prefer less
toxic, non-chemical-based and natural approaches as their primary
weapon against fleas.
*
Steam-clean carpets. After they dry, sprinkle on boric acid/borax
and salt treatment. Some people use just the boric acid/Borax,
others use just salt that they grind to a powder using a blender,
and some combine the ingredients, which dehydrate fleas, larva and
eggs over time. While boric acid is far safe and less toxic than
other bug control chemicals, it still can pose a health risk to
small animals, so it’s recommended to wipe up boric acid dust and
vacuum daily for a few days after applying the powder.
*
Chemicals used to control and kill pre-adult fleas indoors include
Precor. This is typically paired with a chemical that kills adult
fleas, such a pyrethrin (tetramethrin, pyrethrin or permethrin) or
an organophosphate. These chemicals are usually packaged in the
form of foggers and sprays.
*
Anti-flea mineral salt treatments for your carpets can be
professionally applied. One is available from Fleabusters, a
cruelty-free business. Fleabusters Rx for Fleas has an extremely low
toxic level on par with table salt and less than boric acid powder,
which is another effective home bug treatment. Rx for Fleas Powder
works by dehydrating fleas, flea larvae and flea eggs in the carpet
and floor cracks of your home. The mineral salt-type treatments are
effective for up to a year. For details, see www.fleabusters.com .
*
Amorphous diatomaceous earth can be sprinkled around baseboards,
under furniture, in cracks, and hard-to-reach areas. Somewhat
messy, this substance kills the fleas by causing them to dehydrate.
Do not use the glassified type used in pool filters.
* Make a
flea trap: Fill a shallow container, such as a wide bowl or glass
pie pan, halfway with water and stir in several drops of dish soap.
Place the container on the floor or table, then hang a light
directly over it. A gooseneck lamp or reading light will work. Use
a lower-wattage bulb to avoid heating the area too far beyond the
water.
Flea
Treatment of Yards:
Flea eggs
fall off in areas of the yard where pets spend time. Fleas can
reproduce in areas that are warm and moist throughout the day, so if
you are treating your yard for fleas, focus on those areas that stay
moist and warm and around the doors of the house.
* Remove
dead plants and excess brush from your yard, since they harbor
critters and parasites.
* There
are chemical-based yard sprays made specifically for yard treatment,
as well as companies that apply such products. Commercial
treatments include Archer and FleaFix. You can obtain more
information by doing a web search.
* If you
plan to use a commercial product, first read the label to make sure
it’s safe for use around pets.
Do-it-yourself approaches that can help you save money and avoid
chemicals:
* Spread
beneficial nematodes in affected areas of the yard to naturally
control fleas. These worms help eliminate fleas by feeding on flea
larva. They are nontoxic, harmless to humans and pets, and even
help control other nuisance insects. You can get them through some
veterinarians and from several internet-based companies.
* Other
alternative bug repellents can be found on the internet. They
include BugBand products that use all-natural Geraniol instead of
DEET to repel mosquitoes, fire ants, flies, gnats, ticks and lice.
For details, visit www.bugband.net. You can find details about NaturVet herbal flea repellent at
www.naturvet.com.
* Ivory
Liquid Soap approach: Rather than poisoning fleas, Ivory reportedly
suffocates fleas, gnats and other bugs. To spray Ivory in your
yard, use a garden sprayer attachment such as the one made by Ortho
Sprayer. Fill it with Ivory and set the dilution dial to 2
tablespoons. Saturate the area, then let it dry before allowing
your dog or anyone else walk on the treated ground. Using this
method, people treat their yards every 4 to 6 weeks.
*
Homemade solution to repel insects from from Hints from Heloise:
Make a solution of 1/2-cup of liquid dishwashing soap, 2 tablespoons
of ammonia, and 5 to 7 cups of water. Use a bottle spray attachment
to apply the solution.
*
Outdoor/indoor bugzapper alternative: Pour some water in a white
dinner plate and add a few drops of Lemon Fresh Joy dish detergent.
Set the dish on your porch, patio or other area. Mosquitoes
reportedly flock to the dish and then die at or within a few feet of
the dish, soon after drinking the mixture. Joy was the specified
detergent, but other brands can work.
* A
fairly safe way to keep mosquitoes away is to spray your yard once a
week with Simple Green, which is available at home and garden
stores.
Shampooing:
* A flea
shampoo that contains pyrethrum or citrus oil is usually effective,
and these additives are less toxic than harsh chemicals.
* When
you shampoo your pet, wash around the neck first to keep fleas away
from the animal’s head.
* Before
shampooing, read the directions that came with the flea/tick control
products you use.
* Before
bathing, plug the dog’s ears with cotton balls and put a dab of
mineral oil in the eyes.
* Recipe
for a gentle homemade shampoo for puppies and dogs with extra dry or
troubled skin:
1/3 Cup
Glycerin
1 Cup
Lemon Liquid Joy
1 Cup
White Vinegar
1 Quart of
Water
Mix in a
liter bottle or a large shampoo bottle. Always shake the solution
before use to mix the glycerin thoroughly.
* Be sure
to see the detailed Dog Tipsheet on bathing listed below.
* Many
dogs have their skin conditions aggravated by frequent bathing. To
give dogs a waterless bath, sprinkle on baking soda and brush off
the excess.
Related Webpages:
Remedies for Insect Stings and Bites, Hot Spots and other Skin
Conditions
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_InsectBites.php
Summer
Health and Safety Guide
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_SummerHealth.php
Flower
Essences and Essential Oils That Can Help Your Companion Animals
(see Part II: Using essential oils to repel bugs)
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_floweressence.php
Bathing
and Grooming
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_Shampoo.php
Poisons
on Pets: Health Hazards from Flea and Tick Products
from the
Natural Resources Defense Council
http://www.nrdc.org/health/effects/pets/execsum.asp
What
You Should Know About Flea and Tick Products
from the
Humane Society of the United States
http://www.hsus.org/ace/11795
Article
about Flea Control, including Nematodes
http://www.vetinfo.com/dencyclopedia/defleacontrol.html
First
Aid Kit
Keep a pet
First Aid Kit in your home and car. Take the one you keep in your
car with you on trips with your pet. This webpage lists items to
include:
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_FirstAid.php
Poison
ASPCA
Animal Poison Control Center 24-hour hotline 1-888-4-ANI-HELP
http://www.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=apcc_poisonsafe
Medical
Info
ASPCA Ani-Med
1-888-721-9100
Natural
Remedies
http://www.shirleys-wellness-cafe.com/ahealth.htm
http://www.petmedicinechest.com
http://www.rainbowcrystal.com/bach/bach.html
Tick
Diseases
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/Dogtip_1112.html
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_InsectBites.php
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Permission granted for use for nonprofit educational purposes only.
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